Principles for Economical Layout
Never mark or cut any pattern until trial shows the best location for all pieces.
Make temporary placement using small weights.
Begin with the largest pattern pieces at opposite ends of the cloth and work toward the center to fit in smaller pieces.
Place the wider ends of the patterns at the cut ends of the fabric.
Place all pieces close to each other so that you can save material which may be used for fullness of the same garment or used for making accessories like hair bands, rings etc.
Cut notches outward if possible or inward if material is not enough.
Follow 'Dovetailing' technique for pattern laying. Dovetailing is placement of similar shaped patterns together. For example a collar pattern can be placed closer to the armscye line. This will help one to save fabric. (Figure).
In case the fabric is insufficient for a pattern, then a small piece of fabric can be added to the fabric, at the part where the pattern extends beyond the fabric. This technique is called as piecing. Balance the pattern and add small bits on either side of the pattern, which will result in good drape. Example: The tip of a skirt hem might extend beyond the fabric, then place the pattern in the center such that small pieces can be added on either sides (Figure ).