Pattern Laying Based Upon the Design
Design incorporated in a fabric should be emphasized to enhance the personality of the wearer. Hence patterns should be laid carefully to maintain the design and to harmonize it with the basic silhouette of the dress. Some of the most common types of designs and the method of laying patterns on them are discussed below.
1. Bold Designs : Large motifs can be used for all sort of garments, but they look best when placed in an irregular fashion. This concept can be assure only with placement of the motifs. If a fabric has too many motifs arranged in a crowded manner or a irregular pattern, they can be placed next to each other, cut and sewed. Since the fabric does not follow a define pattern the garment will not look odd (Figure).
When the material has well designed large motifs repeated after equal distance, place these designs on to the center of the pattern. Don't cut through large motifs because it is difficult to match seam lines (Figure).
Pattern laying techniques vary based upon the designs also. So a dress designer should observe the type of design and the repeat of the design.
2. One-way Design : One way designs can be printed or woven. Design go in one direction Eg. Group of flowers on a creaper can be woven from selvege to selvage in the lengthwise direction or a group of geometrical designs can be printed (Figure).
When patterns are laid on these type of fabric one must carefully check if the seam lines on one pattern match with the design of the pattern which is joined. Eg. If a blouse pattern with front opening is cut on a one way design, place the patterns in such a way that both the right and left blouse patterns are alike (Figure).
3. Stripes and plaids : Stripes are straight lines running in the lengthwise or crosswise direction. These stripes are called as vertical stripes and horizontal stripes (Figure). Stripes are most commonly used in shirt patterns. They can be cut in lengthwise and crosswise directions to create zig-zag effects on garments. Collar, sleeve, pocket patterns can be cut in cross grain on vertically striped material to create interest to the garment (Figure).
Plaids are lines woven or printed in both lengthwise and crosswise direction. Plaids create a checked effect (Figure).
Stripes and plaids can be even or balanced and uneven or unblanaced. Even or balanced strips and plaids can be described as lines or bar arranged in a definite colour or placement. The size of the bars and stripes are similar. The variation occurs in the type of yarn or colour of the yarn used (Figure). Uneven or unbalanced is just the opposite. Here bar and stripes of different sizes, colours and spacing are arranged in a systematic manner (Figure).
4. Border Designs: These designs run along one selvedge only. They can be woven or printed. The design can be used along the hem lines of the bodice, skirt and sleeve patterns. In order to maintain the design line some patterns like yokes and collarsareto cut on straight grain. These fabrics cannotbe used for curved edged garments like flared skirts. One must make sure that the hemlines are straight to follow this design. While placing pattern on these designed fabrics. One must take care to match the designs. Eg. the front and the back bodice pattern must have the same thread of design at the side seam but it need not be similar in case of abstact designs. (Figure).
Open layout out or off center lengthwise layout will suit these type of fabrics.