Types of Collars

TYPES OF COLLAR:

A collar could be made close to or away from neckline and the collar edge could be round, curved, square, or pointed (long or short) depending upon design variation.

Collars may be attached to a garment fabric or may be finished seperately. They can be cut on bias, lengthwise or crosswise grain depinding upon the effect desired according to the style. There are four main types of collar such as flat, stand, roll and shawl. All collars take on one of these shapes and needs interfacing to stiffen them, and must fit accurately to the neckline. Even slight alteration to the neck edge can throw out the fit of the collar unless these alterations have been allowed for when making up the collar.

Collars need careful trimming and layering so, If they are curved make snipping otherwise they will neither turn well have a neat, sharp finish. Pressing is also very important. A collar should be pressed to its shape. eg., roll collar should be pressed in a roll-it should not be pressed flat. Always press the neck join after attaching and before proceeding to finish. Some of the types of collars are 1. Round collar 2. Peterpan collar 3. Scalloped collar 4. Sailor collar 5. Rolll collar 6. Shirt collar 7. Band collar 8. Shawl collar

1. Round Collar or one piece peter pan collar:

This is used for children's dresses. In front, the collar is continuous and at back, it is divided with rounded ends. To make the pattern for this collar, first duplicate the neckline area of the garment as explained below. Keep the front and back bodice patterns together on a paper, with neck points of shoulder lines touching and with the patterns overlapping �' near the shoulder as illustrated in figure. Trace the outline of the upper part of the bodies. Label the front neck line as shoulder-S and back neckline R. Now mark X, Y, Z, 1�' to 2' away from T, S and R respectively. Join XYZ as shown. Mark a notch at S, to indicate shoulder points, Label the collar as shown and cut out the collar pattern. This is a flat collar.

2. Peter Pan Collar:

This is similar to Round collar. This is used in children's dresses and has rounded ends at back and front. To prepare the pattern take the pattern of round collar pattern and round off the collar at the back and front. This is also a flat collar.

3. Scalloped collar:

Draft collar of 2' to 3' width following the same as peterpan. Modify the shape of the outer edge of collar to scallop. These can be attached in frocks. This will also come under flat collar.

4. Sailor Collar:

It is rounded, turned-down collar with a rollect effect at the neckline. This flatcollar is suitable for baby suits and little girls's dresses. It has a 'V' shape in front and square shape at the back. First of all modify the bodice front neckline to 'V' shapes by marking X, 3' to 4' below T and connect SX. Now trace on a sheet of paper the neckline area of back and modified front bodice patterns after overlapping the shoulder points near arm hole. Draw the R to Z = 2', S to O = 2'

Draw a line from O and Z the interesting point is marked as P. Join all the lines for new patterns.

5. Roll collar:

This type of collar is used mainly on men's and boy's shirt. T-Shirts and sports wear. It can be used on children's garments and ladies tops also. Draw a rectangle ABCD, mark BC = width of collar, AB = � neck measurement. BF =1�' Join CF and BF. AF is the outer edge of the collar and DC is the seam line.

6. Shirt collar:

This collar has two parts the band or stand and the collar patern. Pattern can be with stand and collar combined. Draw rectangle ABCD with the following dimension, leaving 2' extension all round AB = � neckline measurement and BC = 3�' to 4'. Mark CE = 1�' and AG = 1�'.

7. Band collar:

This is a narrow collar (about 1' wide) that stands up above the neckline of the garment all around. It is usually applied to front open garment. This is also called as kurta collar. This is used in kurtas, kids wear and kameez. It should always be interfaced, if it needs a smart appearance of its upright line. Draw a rectangle ABCF, where AB= � neck circumference, BC= collar width  (1'- 4') curve the top edge by keeping point �' before B and mark as 'd'. Join d to c.

8. Shawl collar:

For this type, the collar and reverse are cut all in one, thus forming the shawl over the shoulders. (eg. a dressing gown, night dress etc. Generally, the under collar is cut in one with the front garment, being extended at the neckline to meet at the centre back. There is generally a joint at the centre of Shawl Collar both the under and top collar.