All seams need double machining.
This little extra effort during sewing will ensure that the seams do not rip
While sewing the shoulder seams,
start from the armhole edge to the neck edge, turn and double-machine the seam,
making sure that the second stitch line does not shift from the seamline.
All straight seams should be
stitched absolutely straight; any irregularities will appear magnified after
the garment has been completed.
While attaching a facing, keep the
work piece flat on a table.
While making gathers, set the
machine on the largest stitch size, loosen the top tension slightly and machine
two rows, one on the seam line and one 0.56 centimeter above it. Wind the top
threads round a pin and pull up to the desired length by the bobbin thread
only. Ease the fabric gently while pulling to avoid breaking the thread.
While attaching an eased or gathered
section of a garment, always keep it on top to ensure evenness and to keep the
gathers from shifting.
While attaching pockets and while
stitching down the pleats, double-machine the edges for reinforcement.
While attaching ruffles or lace,
provide extra ease at the corners.
A curved seam is stitched in the
same way as a plain seam but the edges are notched so that the seams may be
pressed flat. Curved seams are pressed on a Tailor's Ham so that the curve does
not flatten during pressing.
bias seam must be sewn with a looser tension to prevent puckering. Never pull
edges that are cut on the bias while sewing or they will get stretched
permanently. If a straight edge is being attached to a bias edge, have the bias
on the underside.
While hemming, remember that the
edge of a skirt is seldom straight and even a slight curve will affect the way
a hem is stitched. A narrow hem is easy to fold along the curves. When the hem
is wide, it may be finished in the following ways:
For an A-line dress or skirt, the
hem is folded before stitching the side seam line, so that the hem matches the
slant of the side seam.
Narrow folds may be introduceed at
regular intervals along the hem edge. Attach this to a bias tape and then hem