Cuffs are fabric bands at the bottoms of straight, gathered, or pleated sleeve edges. Although cuff styles vary according to the garment design, any cuff will basically be one of two general types. The first type cuff without placket can be used on both long and short sleeves, and is made large enough around for the hand or arm to slip in end out easily without a cuff-and-placket opening. The second type cuff with placket of cuff is generally attached to a long sleeve and, different from the first type, requires a cuff-and-placket opening fastened snugly around wrist.
Because cuffs without plackets have no openings they are cut large so the hand or arm can slip easily in and out. There are three basic styles of this cuff type. The straight band cuff, straight turn-back cuff and shaped turnback cuff. The straight band cuff is made with a seperate cuff attached to the sleeve bottom. The straight turnback cuff is made by turning up the deep finished hem of a sleeve. Sometimes, instead of the deep self-hem, a separate extension piece is added to the sleeve bottom to form the turnback cuff. The shaped turnback cuff is a separately constructed cuff that is a separately constructed cuff that is attached to the sleeve with a facing.
`The three most popular styles are the lapped cuff, shirt cuff, and french cuff. Each is constructed and applied to the sleeve after the placket opening is made at the sleeve edge. The three most commonly used plackets, are the faced placket, continous bound placket, and Tailored or shirt placket. Note that edges of the faced placket, meet at the opening, while edges of the other two plackets lap. The continuous bound placket is finished with a single fabric strip to create a narrow lap; the shirt placket is finished with two seperate pieces to create a wider lap.
The lapped cuff, with a continous bound placket has one end projecting from placket edge. The shirt cuff is sewed with its ends aligned to the underlap and overlap edges of the shirt placket. The french cuff, with a faced placket, is sewed to the placket edges so cuff ends meet rather than lap, the cuff is cut wide to double back onto itself.