PATTERN ALTERATION:
Successful pattern alteration demands changing size without changing
proportions and lines. Correct changes are made by tucking or piecing patterns
near their center and without changing the original size. It is not advisable
to cut beyond a pattern or turn the edge of pattern since such alterations
change its shape as well as its size.
After deciding where the pattern needs to be altered, draw a straight
line as a guide for cutting the pattern. For most alterations make the line
parallel cut along this line as needed, so that it will spread out flat. If
your are lengthening or shortening an entire pattern piece, you will need to
cut the pattern all the way across and increase fullness entirely through
pattern. Before cutting, draw two short lines a few inches apart, at right
angles to and across the cutting line. Then match these lines when you spread
and place the pattern, keep the pieces in correct position.
Spread or place, the cut edges to make the pattern larger or smaller, as
needed. When you spread the sections apart, lay a strip of paper underneath the
cut edges. Check the altered pattern measurements to be sure that they are with
the measurements, needed then paste, pin or use gummed tape to fasten the
pattern pieces in place.
Sometimes more than one change is also needed in a pattern piece. The
best way is to take care of each alteration separately. Try not to change the
shape of the armholes, neckline, or shoulders anymore than necessary.
If the alteration is difficult, then make a duplicate pattern made with
newspaper, make all markings and notches on the duplicate, and make the
necessary corrections on it. It is a good idea to try out the altered pattern
in muslin or old cloth to be sure of the fit. Then alter the original pattern
in the same way.
Pattern alteration can be best done by a slash and spread method for
enlarging a pattern and fold pleat for reducing it. While altering a pattern it
is necessary that all grain lines must be straight.
Equipment needed for altering patterns, includes a pair of scissors,
some light weight paper, and pins. Heavy paper is not suitable for making
alterations, also a ruler and pencil to redraw construction details that are
interrupted by your alterations are necessary.
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