Types of Hem
There are many types of hem finishes:
Four types of hem finishes are discussed below:
1. The Stitched and
Turned Hem
The hem is evened, and the raw edge is turned under ¼ inch and machine
stitched very close to the edge. Then the hem is slip-stitched in place with
stitches ½ inch apart.
Uses :
1.
This method should be used for almost all sheer
fabrics.
2.
Use this method for lightweight cottons, because
it is quick and very adequate.
3.
It is well to use this finish on cascaded
drapery effects or cascading ruffles. As the drapery falls into folds, the hem
will be revealed in places.
4.
This finish has an advantage for circular skirts
too.
2. Herringbone Hem or
Catch Stitched Hem
The hem is evened and the raw edge is left unfinished. The hem is merely
turned up and held in place with catch stitches ½ inch apart.
Uses:
1.
This method is sometimes used for very heavy
wools of the tailored variety.
2.
Its most important use is for hems of lined
garments.
3. Whipped Hem
The hem is evened and the raw edge is turned under ¼ inch, then whipping
stitch is done ½ inch apart to hold the hem in place. Be sure the stitches are
inconspicuous on the right side of the fabric .
Uses :
This method is useful for light weight cotton fabrics.
It is also used on narrow hems, to finish bias facings.
4. Shell edge hem by
hand
Turn 1/8 to 3/16 inch hem to
the wrong side, and crease between the fingers or press. If the edge is curved
or on the bias begin by machine stitching near the outside edge. Using a fine
needle, hold the turned side of the hem toward you, and work from right to
left. Fasten the thread with a small back stitch and slide the needle inside
the fold to conceal the thread. Bring the needle out along the edge and make an
overhand stitch over the hem, to produce a scalloped edge. Then slide the
needle through the fold and continue.
Shell edged hem by
machine
To achieve this shell-edge or multiple scalloped effect, use the blind
stitch of your machine, the zigzag stitches reach over the folded edge of the
garment to create tiny scallops.
Uses :
1.
It is a decorative hem used to decorate the
night gowns.
2.
It is a popular finish used in lingeries.
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