Hems- Marking the Hemline and Preparing the Hem

HEMS

A hem is a finish for any bottom edge of a garment. Selection of a hem depends largely on garment style and fabric. Whatever the choice, certain criteria should always be met:

1.     The garment should hang evenly and gracefully.

2.     There should be no lumpiness in the hem allowances.

3.     Unless meant to be decorative, finished hems should be totally inconspicuous.

Purpose of the Hem

The most obvious purpose of a hem is to finish off the raw edge.

Another important purpose of the hem is to add weight and body to ensure a nice hang to the garment. Weight and body are especially important in the hems of skirts.

Marking the Hemline

The first step common to all hem finishes, is marking the hemline. Except for certain pleated styles, marking is done after garment construction has been completed. Though a garments finished length is largely determined by the pattern style and current fashion, it should be modified in a different length will be more flattering to the wearer. It is wise to check the hemline location before cutting the pattern, in case a change is required.

1.     Mark the final line for the hem after the waistline and placket have been completed, usually at the second or third fitting. Wear the type of foundation garment and shoes that you will later wear with the dress or skirt, since a variation in tightness or a difference in heel height will change the skirt length.

2.     Various types of chalk and pin markers for hemlines are made for marking hems. You can also use a tailors square or a yardstick. Marking will go more rapidly if you place a narrow strip of gummed tape or an elastic band at the correct point on the stick.

3.     Stand in a natural position with arms at sides and with feet parallel and close together, maintaining the same position until the hem is completely marked. If a self marker is not being used, stand on a step or a solid work table so that the hemline can be at the eye level of the fitter. The fitter should move around the hemline as she marks it.

Mark the line with pins or chalk every 3 or 4 inches. Do not turn up the hemline as it is marked.

Preparing the Hem

Turning Hem and Making it Even

1.     Spread the hemline out on a flat surface so that any unevenness in the line can be detected. Before turning the hem, mark the line with 1 inch basting stitches, using a long slender needle.

2.     Turn up the hem to the wrong side, pinning at right angles, near the turning line. Match the centerlines and seamlines on the hem

3.     to those on the garment. Baste ¹/₈ inch from the turning line, using 1 inch stitches.

4.     To check the evenness and the becomingness of the hemline, pin the upper edge of hem in place and try on the garment.

5.     After the hemline is checked on the figure, determine the depth of the hem according to the weight of the fabric. Garments moderately flared and of medium weight look well with hems 2 or 3 inches deep.

6.     Measure with a guage or a card, and chalk an even depth for the hem. Before marking be sure that the fullness in the upper edge is laid in the right position. Cut along the chalked line.