Seam Finish

SEAM FINISH:

A seam finish is any technique used to make a seam edge look neater and/or keep it from raveling. A seam finish can be selected depending on the type of garment and texture of the fabric.

1.       Double stitched seam finish

2.       Pinked finish

3.       Stitched and pinked finish

4.       Overcast finish

5.       Herringbone stitched seam finish

6.       Hem stitched seams finish

7.       Edge stitched finish

8.       Zig zag stitched seam finish

9.       Bound seam finish

10.     Net-bound finish

1. Double stitched seam finish:

A double stitched seam is especially good for knits, such as knitted soft jersey where edges tend to curl. Stitch a plain seam with straight stitch. And then stitch a second row 1/8' from the first stitch, using one of the following as straight stitch, zig zag, a blind stitch or other over edge stitch. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching. Press seam to one side.

2. Pinked finish:

This is a quick method and is not bulky, but is not a suitable finish for fabrics that ravel badly such as satin and other similar kind of fabrics. After stitching plain seam trim off about 1/8' of the seam allowance using the pinking shears. Then press the seam open.

3. Stitched and pinked finish:

After a making a plain seam, turn the fabrics towards the wrongside, press the seam open and make both a stitch �' from the seamline on both sides.

Trim both the edges with pinking shear.

4. Overcast seam finish:

This is a common finish used for both thick and thin fabrics that frays easily. It is suitable for narrow seams and also for seams that receives hard wear such as armholes and waist lines. Make a plain seam and press open. Work overcasting stitches over the raw edges separately. Avoid tight stitches in order to prevent edges from puckering on seams of armholes and yokes. Press the seam allowances to one side and overcast both edges together.

5. Herringbone stitched seam finish:

This finish neatens the raw edges and also holds down the turning, making the seam flat, suitable for heavier fabrics. Press seam open and work herringbone stitches on two raw edges, catching the garment.

6. Hem stitched seam finish:

This finish neatens the raw edges with the help of hem stitch. Press the seam open and work hem stitch holding the fabric. The right side of the fabric shows small dots.

7. Edge stitched seam finish:

Plain seam is stitched and pressed open. Then turn under �' on each seam edge and top stitch close to the fold without catching the garment. This finish is used on unlined coats and jackets where a wide seam allowance is available. This is a bulky finish and is not suitable for deeply curved seams.

8. Zig zag stitched seam finish:

This type of finish is more suitable for natural fur and fake fur fabric. Trim seam allowance to 1/8' and stitch with plain zig zag stitches.

9. Bound seam finish:

Bound binding in especially good for finishing seams in an unlined jacket or coat. Press the seam open on the wrong side and wrap a bias around it, with wider side of tape underneath, stitch close to edge of top fold, catching underneath fold in stitching.

10. Net-bound seam finish:

This is an inconspicuous and appropriate finish for delicate fabric, such as velvet or chiffon.

Cut �' wide strips of nylon net, fold in half lengthwise, slightly off center. Wrap net around edge with wider half underneath. From top, edge stitch narrow half to binding, catching wider half underneath in the stitching.