PRINCIPLES FOR PATTERN
DRAFTING:
Drafting can be done on ordinary brown paper which should not however be
too thin.
To obtain an accurate draft, use a sharp pencil, and a ruler for,
drawing straight lines. To get the corners at right angles, keep an 'L' scale
or set squares ready. Before drafting, it is important to understand the
procedures and instructions clearly, and to have practice in drawing a well
balanced pattern with smooth curves and straight lines. You must understand the
following principles before starting to attempt drafting.
Patterns must be made larger than body
measurements to allow for freedom of movement, ease of action and comfort in
wearing. Recommended ease allowance for various parts of the body are listed
below. For bust 3' to 5' (3' for a tight fitting garment and 5' for loose
fitting one); waist ½' ; hip 3' to 5' ; upper arm 3' to 4'; arm hole depth 1'.
For all the garment the ease allowance must always be left before
cutting out the pattern.
For symmetric designs where the right and left
sides are alike, paper pattern for half front and half back only need to be
made. For the bodice, start the drafting with the back part. For sleeves, full
pattern must be drafted.
It is better to draft the primary or basic
pattern blocks - plain bodice, plain sleeve, plain skirt without seam
allowances. When this is done, be sure to leave seam allowances while laying
out the pattern on the material at the time of cutting. If you do not have much
experience in cutting, and want to avoid the risk of cutting without seam
allowance you may add seam allowances to your paper pattern itself after completing
the draft.
The following construction detailed information
should be recorded and marked clearly.
Name of each piece of pattern (bodice front,
bodice back, sleeve etc).
Number of pieces to be cut with each pattern
piece. (For example, for a back
open dress, you have to cut 1
front, 2 backs and sleeves).
If seam
allowances are not included in the draft, this should be mentioned. If seam
allowances are included, seam lines and cutting lines should be clearly shown.
Lengthwise or straight grain line should be
drawn with a red pencil as shown (← - →) on all
pattern pieces. This line indicates that the pattern should be kept on the
cloth in such a way that the line is parallel to the length of the cloth or the
selvedges, it is usually drawn parallel to the centre front and centre back
edges of the pattern.
Provide matching notches or balance marks if
necessary along seams to show which seams are to be joined together.
Centre front and centre back line should be
marked. It is advantageous to cut outward notches at centre front and centre
back of pattern pieces because at the time of assembling the garment, notches
on collars can be matched to notches on the neck line of garment etc.
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