Preparing Patterns Of Different Types Of Yokes and Attaching yokes

PREPARING PATTERNS OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF YOKES:

1. Yoke without fullness:

This type of yokes can be of variety with different shapes and size. To prepare the pattern for this, take the front bodice pattern and draw the yoke line from shoulder to center front as desired. For a curved or 'V' shaped yoke, this method must be followed, for a straight line yoke, draw line from armhole to centre front of bodice pattern. Label both the section.

2. Yoke with fullness:

For this types of yoke, decorate the fabric with (tucks pleats, gathers, shirring and embroidery) any fullness must be finished first place the yoke pattern over the decorated fabric. Cut the required amount of fabric and stitch tucks according to the design. Keep the paper pattern on the tucked fabric and cut in the correct shape including seam allowance and attach it with the other patterns.

Attaching yokes:

A yoke maybe attached to the lower section by either a plain seam or a lapped seam. Lapped seam cuf the yoke and the skirt including seam allowances, on the fabric. Gather the skirt making sure that the width of the yoke and skirt are equal after the skirt has been gathered . Now place the yoke over the skirt right side facing and matching notches.

Pin and tack distributing gathers evenly. Machine on the wrong side of the yoke along the seam line as shown. Finally remove the tacking and turn up yoke on the right side and press.

Yoke which has curve and straight line as in skirt with panel the seam runs almost at the right angles to the corner. First of all prepare the lower section of the garment by working the gathering stitches. Next take the yoke, and work machine stitches just near the seamline and reinforce the corners, fold the seam allowance to the wrongside and tack with small stitches close to the fold. To enable the seam to be flat, cuff notches into the seam allowance.

Next keep the yoke on top of the lower section, matching seam lines. Tack in position and top stitch. Close to the folded edge of the yokes. A tucked seam effect can be got, if desired, by doing the top stitching away from the folded edge of the yoke.