Pattern laying needs extra care when the fabric vary like knits or silk. A clear knowledge about the various points to consider in laying patterns on special fabrics will help one to use the fabric economically and save time. It will also help in designing varieties in dresses.
1. Knits : Knitted fabric is a special type of fabric made by interlooping of a single yarn. There are various varieties of knitted fabrics like single and double jersey, tricot and rib. Out of these jersey fabrics are normally used for garment construction.
Pulling or tearing should be avoided to straighten the fabric
Lay the folded edges straight on a flat surface or cutting table
Cut a straight cross wide line at right angle to fold the selvage
If the fabric is very slippery, a newspaper or butter sheet can be pinned to the fabric before laying it straight on the table
Always place the pattern on the wrong side of the fabric, this prevents curling or rolling of the fabric
Beginners can use thin pins to pin the patterns before marking them
Mark the outline of the patterns using a tailor's chalk or red and blue pencil
Open layout is best for jersey fabrics irrespect of the type of garment
Take care to stay stitch the bias or curved edges
2. Silk, Rayon, Laced Fabrics : These fabrics are very thin, slippery and delicate. Great care is required in marking and cutting these fabrics.
Pre shrinking is not required for these fabrics. They can be used directly as purchased from the shopes
To straighten the fabrics, lay them on the table and pull in crosswise direction
Lay the fabric on a flat smooth surface. Move your figures smoothly over the fabric to remove creases. Even a clean floor can be used. Make sure that the surface is bigger than the fabrics
A newspaper or butter paper can be pinned to the back side of the fabrics, to prevent slippage of the fabric while placing the patterns
Place the patterns on the right side of the fabric. Right side can be identified by seeing and feeling. The right side is always brighter and smoother
Pin the patterns along with the fabric neatly in two or three place. Take care to pin the patterns along the lengthwise grain. Make sure that yarns are not pulled off while pinning the patterns.
Cut the pattern alone with the pined pattern or you can mark them with the help of a tailor's chalk
Stay stitch the curved edges, roll all the patterns and keep aside till it is taken for sewing.
Open layout is best suited for these type of fabrics especially for beginners. One can use off-center fold also
3. Velvet, Satin, Pile Fabrics : These fabrics have loop like structure on the surface. These structures add grace to the fabric, therefore atmost care should be taken.
Always roll these fabrics after purchase and carry it home. Leave it rolled till cutting. This prevents formation of wrinkles.
If wrinkles are found, hang the fabric on a rod or string over a tub of hot water, such that the steam passes over the fabric. Move your fingers slighty over the wrinkles. Take care to follow the direction of the loops / pills.
Pull the fabric gently to straighten it.
Place the fabric with the right side facing (the loops / pills facing you) on the table.
Place the patterns. Use a tailors chalk for marking.
Expert dress designers use needles to pin patterns in one or two places and cut the patterns without tracing it on to the fabric.
Open layout is the best preferred for these fabrics, especially because one has to maintain the direction of grain.