How To Stitch Cut Choli Dress

How To Stitch Cut Choli Dress

 CUT CHOLI

Introduction:

 This is worn by women. This choli is used when wearing sarees. The choli should fit the body structure.

Suitable materials: Voiles, cotton, silk, velvette, printed silk, huckobha, umber, 2/2, materials can be used for cut choli.

Fabric requirements: Twice choli's length + sleeve length + 5 cm fold.

Measurements              

Full length            =  14' + 1�' fold

Chest circumference       =       30'

Shoulder width     =       13'

Waist circumference       =       25'

Sleeve circumference      =       11'

Sleeve length                  =       8'

Instructions for Drafting      

Front part                              

ABCD is a rectangle               

AF     =                          

AB    =       CD = length + cross belt (patti)

AC    =       BD = � chest width + �' for case

AE    =       Front neck depth = 4'

AF     =       Neck width = 3'

AG    =       � shoulder width

GH    =       1/6 chest circumference + 1'

DI      =       1'

JB     =  KI Belt piece (patti piece)

HKI   =       Side line seam.

EFGHLKJE = Front piece. JKIB = Patti piece

SG = length wise

Note: Patti or belt cut from the front piece should again be attached to the front piece after stitching the front darts.

Back Part                     

AB    =       CD length + 1�' fold 6 

AC    =       BD = � chest width

AE    =       Back neck depth = 2�'

AF     =       Neck width = 3'

AG    =       � shoulder width

GH    =       1/       chest circumference + 1'

DI      =       1'      HI = side line

SG     =       Lengthwise

EFGHIBE   =       Back part piece

Sleeve Part          

AB    =       CD = Sleeve length + 1' fold

AC    =       BD = � sleeve circumference

CE     =       3'     

EF     =       Side line

DF     =       1'     

SG     =       Length wise

Pattern Pieces

Front part body piece - 2 

Cross belt (patti ) 4 pieces Back part body piece - 1 Sleeve part - 2 pieces

Placket and neck line cross piece, facing and binding pieces.

Stitching Method

a.     Cut the material using paper pattern leaving seam allowances on the bodice front, back and sleeve.

b.     Cut the belt from the bodice front & fold the bottom and do the machine stitch.

c.      Stitch 3 darts in the front part on both sides (left & right) as shown in the figure.

d.     Now attach the belt to the front part of the bodice.

e.      Near the opening do the 2 piece placket.

f.       After attaching the placket, attach the front bodice to the back at the shoulder seam.

g.     On the back bodice do the 2 half darts.

h.     After joining the shoulder seam join the side seams.

i.       Take 2 sleeve parts, fold the edges and do the hemming.

j.       After hemming, attach the sleeves to the bodice.

k.     Finish the neck line using cross pieces and do the hem.

l.       After finishing the neck, attach hooks and eyes near the opening (or on the placket).