Home | Garment Enrichment - Different types of applied decorations

Chapter: 11th 12th std standard Textiles And Dress Designing Cloth stitch Higher secondary school College practical steps methods Notes

Garment Enrichment - Different types of applied decorations

Garment Enrichment - Different types of applied decorations
Applied decoration consists of self-material as well as contrasting materials and colours worked up ingeniously and applied artistically but not added as a 'stuck-on-trim'.

Garment Enrichment


Irrespective of age, sex and nationality every individual wants to look as his best, which is rightly catered by garments. A plain piece of fabric will make one dull, therefore every garment is enriched with some decoration and trimmings. They are like two sides of a coin, which can be used seperately or together. They used seperately or together. They are a must for any garment, to be well made and finished. On the other hand these enrich the garment thus cutting a pattern, is not enough to finish a garment but one must consider the need for decoration and select proper trimmings, simple to suit the pattern, then only the construction is taken into account.




Decoration means enrichment of garments. They can be done on the surface of the garmnet to enhance the look or made to sew as a part of the garment. Decoration vary depending upon garmnet, person using and figure types.


Types of decoration


1. Structural decoration: Structural decorations are decorations introduced in the structure of the garment. This begins with good structure or cut, strengthened and controlled by fit and workmanship. This also adds fullness to the garments.


2. Surface or Applied decoration: Applied decoration consists of self-material as well as contrasting materials and colours worked up ingeniously and applied artistically but not added as a 'stuck-on-trim'.




 1. Embroidery: Embroidery is one of many good methods of applied decoration. But it needs good skill, time and artistic talent. Embroidery may be done by machine or hand.

2.  Chikankari Embroidery : Chikankari embroidery also known as shadow work, is the most common and popular form of embroidery that is typically designed with predominant white threads. It is an intricate needlework, which represents the art form of the city of Lucknow. Chikankari is a light and very well suited to hot climatic conditions. It combines comfort and aesthetic value. We offer our valued clients with customized chikankari designs as per their preferences on varied fabrics.


Lucknow, in Uttar Pradesh, is the center of chikan embroidery, renowned for its timeless grace and its gossamer delicacy, a skill more than 200 years old. A study of the origin of chikan reveals that this form of embroidery had come to India from Persia with Noor Jehan, the queen of the Mughal emperor Jehangir. The embroidery found a place in the prestigious homes in Europe, specimens of which are still available. The design to be embroidered is printed on the fabric with wooden blocks or brass blocks using fugitive colours. The embroidery has a repertoire of about 40 stitches of which only30 are still being used .Among these the most commonly used are running stich, herringbone and back stitch. These can be broadly divided into 3 heads- flat, raised and open trellis like jaali work. The patterns are mostly inspired from Mughal culture.


3. Coin Work Embroidery


Coin work embroideries a delightful embellishment on different fabrics or attire. The fragile coins have detailed raised decorative surface for an attractive look. Every coin is delicately embroidered into the base using thread, ribbon or wire. Our collection highlights perfect blend of traditional Indian heritage and contemporary artwork. We have expertise in custom design coin work to suit the taste of our discerning clients.

Coin embellishment gives a metallic look to the fabric and gives a bohemian look unless combined with some beads or other material. It seems to be originated among Kuchi tribes ranging over Northern Afghanistan and Northern Pakistan. They incorporated coins in the embroidery from an ethnological perspective along with plastic, pearl and metal buttons and various tokens of particular interest. The coins were gradually added reflecting the wearer's wealth and trading activities. Mostly, string of metal beads threaded on cords are disposed in a geometric ,symmetrical pattern that complements the lines of construction of the dress.


4. Dori Embroidery


Dori embroidery is essentially a cord or a strong thread .Different colors of cords are used for the embellishment of the fabric using couching stitch mainly and some stitches of zardozi .It is usually combined with sequins, pearls , gota to create a mesmerizing effect.


The cord used in Doriwork has a rich metallic color that brings definition to the design. The thread is used to outline the motif on the fabric; when backstitched the clean line lifts the element of the fabric and creates a sense of dimension giving a lacy and openwork effect on the fabric. Matching colours of the cord can be used to make couching of the cord invisible or different colors can be used to create interesting contrasts. We can also use gold and silver cords to create a mesmerizing metallic effect to the embroidery.


The traditional Gotakari is a marvel designer's choice. It can be crafted in a floral pattern spread all over the attire or having dual work border. It is a unique decorative lace, which is mostly available with fine silver and golden lines. Our 100% customizable service offers our customers the choice to tailored Gotakari on any fabric according to their specifications.


The art of gotakari is very similar to the appliqu� embroidery. It involves placing woven fabric either gold or silver onto the other fabric to create different surface textures. Mostly , it is used to fill up the petals of a flower or leaves. The appliqu� is fixed with outlining of chain stitch or dori work to give it a dimensional effect. Sometimes, a border of gota is used as edging which is called Kinari . it is the frilled or tasseled border for decoration.

5. Kutch Work Embroidery


Known as 'Sindhi stitch' in earlier days, Kutch Embroidery is used to add gaiety to any fabric. Its long stitches and embossed designs form an all-over design covering the entire surface. These designs are prepared by fixing small round-shaped mirrors to the material with the help of the buttonhole stitch, the outline being sketched by hand. The entire kutch embroidery designs are made with cross-stitches. We offer a complete outfit tailored to client's specific style and needs.


This is the most exquisite and high quality representation of tribal embroidery from the kutch area of Gujarat. The bride brings to her husband's house a wealth of richly embroidered textiles carefully worked by herself and the women of her family in addition to jewelry and utensils. Each village in Kutch have a distinct style of embroidery and design. This is a very versatile embroidery involving a plenty of stitches to beautify the product like buttonhole , stem, chain, satin, herringbone, open chain stitch, interlacing stitch , Roman stitch, darning stitch and running stitch. The colours used are bright and vibrant like red, coral, orange, neon green ,indigo, turquoise , pink and purple. The motifs vary from floral, dancing human figures, peacocks to geometrical.

6. Zardozi Embroidery


Zardozi embroidery is imperial metal embroidery. It is done after stretching the fabric on a wooden frame and individually the zardozi element is incorporated into the pattern by being picked up by a needle, which is then pushed into the fabric. Zardozi is rich embroidery, which is intricately woven in golden and silver. It can also be studded with pearls and precious stones to enhance the exquisiteness of rich and glowing fabrics like silk, velvet and brocade. We also welcome ideas and drawings from clients to deliver them with customized designs.


Zardozi embroidery is beautiful metal embroidery which once used to embellish the attire of the Kings and royals in India. Zardozi has been in existence in India from the time of Rig Veda . There are numerous instances mentioning the use of Zari embroidery as ornamentation on the attire of Gods. It was done with pure silver wires and gold leaves in olden days. The word Zardozi comes from Persia where Zar means gold and Dozi means embroidery. The embroidery is done on the fabric, which is stretched on a wooden frame. The elements used in embroidery are salma (gold wire), sitaras (metal stars), sequins, glass beads, dabka (springed gold wire) and kasab(wire).The needle is used to pull out each zardozi element and then, it is integrated into the basic design by pushing the needle into the fabric. The fabrics used are silk, satin, velvet etc.


7. Thread Work Embroidery


Thread embroidery is the embellishment of wide range of materials achieved with a variety of types of thread, for example; cotton, silk, wool, gold and silver wires. The work can be made on a frame or in the hand , the choice depends on several factors.There are many kinds of stitches involved.


There are two kinds of threadwork embroidery, surface embroidery and counted thread embroidery. In surface embroidery, the pattern is worked using decorative stitches and laid threads on top of the foundation fabric rather than through the fabric. In counted thread embroidery, the fabric threads are counted by the embroiderer's before inserting the needle into the fabric. Usually, an even weave fabric is used for this kind of embroidery. The various kinds of embroidery in thread are Kantha, Kashida, kasuti, Gara , Phulkari and Kutch work.. All kind of stitches are used here like chain, satin, open chain stitch,long and short, French , interlacing, herringbone ,running, stem and back stitch etc.

8. Ribbon Work Embroidery


Silk ribbon embroidery is a romantic old art that uses ribbon ,embroidery floss and perle cotton to work beautiful motifs and decorative stitches. It is either enjoyed in its pure form and can be combined with Brazilian embroidery, cross stitch, crazy quilting and Hardanger among others.

Silk ribbon embroidery is a delicate Victorian art of embroidery. There is an antique quality to this form of embroidery. Though, it looks very complicated but it is very easy and fun to do.

It is mainly done by hand on garments, accessories and home furnishings. There are many different embroidery stitches used in this art , though the popular ones are ribbon stitch, lazy daisy stitch ,straight stitch , stem stitch and French knot. These can be used alone or in combinations to create large array of floral motifs and stitch patterns. The ribbon stitch uses ribbon only, but the other stitches can also be used with ribbon or thread namely sequins, pearls and stones to make rich, lively looking embellishments for garments, quilts, accessories and home furnishings. Some other stitches that are used are, feather stitch, fly stitch, split stitch and fly stitch fern.

 9. Stone Work Embroidery

We offer a beautiful stone work in countless patterns on various fabrics. Our plethora of designs are exclusively made while keeping in mind the latest trends prevalent in the market. We have a unique collection of Fig. stones including precious and semi-precious stones in a variety of shapes, sizes and finishes. Designed to suit the distinct taste of fashion conscious customers, our creations are available in vibrant and bold colors. We also offer customization of art work to meet the requirements of global customers.

Stone work is really used to highlight embroidery. The current trend is to use crystals and semiprecious stones. Stones can be used alone as a centerpiece or in formation of lines and other various ways. They can be incorporated in any kind of embroidery to highlight it. The colored stones give an ostentatious look. Stones give an extra sense of physical realism to the embroidery. This embroidery is little on the expensive side. There are cheaper versions of stones as well available.

10. Sequin Work Embroidery

Sequins are disk shaped beads used for decorative purposes and are available in a wide variety of colors and geometrical shapes. It is a kind of an embroidery work done in apparel and other handicrafts to look attractive and rich. Sequins may be stitched flat to the fabric, so that they do not move, and are less likely to fall off; or they may be stitched at only one point, so that they dangle and move easily, to catch more light. We offer a spectrum of brilliant sequinwork to our customers as per their choice.

Although coins are still used as sequins in some cultures, modern sequins tend to be made of plastic. They may also be referred to as spangles, paillettes or diamantes. They may be stitched flat to the fabric so that they do not move and, are less likely to fall off. Or they may be stitched at only one point, so that they dangle and move easily to catch more light. Some sequins are made with facets to increase their reflective ability. Sequins got their name from the Arabic Sikka meaning a coin or disc. The custom of stitching sequins and similar coins to women's clothing, particularly headdresses, face veils and over the bosom and hips, originally arose as a way to display the family's wealth .It was this ancient wisdom that led to the use of sequined fabric and trims in moderns fashion, and expanded the definition of sequin beyond coins to include this particular type of decoration

11. Bead Work

Bead work is one of the most oldest method of surface enrichment which has been done till date. Beads are small or big elements with holes in the center. Thread can be passed through the hole and fixed to the fabric. Beads are available in different sizes, colour and shapes. They can be made of different materials like plastics, metals and wood.

12. Applique:

It is a technique of applying one fabric to another in a decorative manner. It is a form of embroidery work mostly consisting of motif single in number.

Applique by hand is done by cutting the edges of the design and stitching it to the fabric using satin stitch, slip stitch, buttonhole stitch, or running stitch.

Applique by machine is done by cutting the edges of the design and stitching it to the garment fabric using machine stitch or zigzag stitch of satin stitch.

�   Quilt top applique is done by using sponge between the actual piece and he appliqu� piece. The sponge is taken without seams and is  attached using machine or hand stitches.   

�   Shadow effect appliqu� is done by using a bright coloured material as the basic material over which the appliqu� piece is stitched. Over this a semi transparent material is stitched. 

� Freehand appliqu� is the one readily available in shops which when ironed on the wrong side the applique will get adhered to the fabric.

13. Quilting:

It is the art of stitching two or more thickness of fabric together in some planned design to provide warmth decoration or an effect of bulk. Formerly, done by hand, now it can be done by machine. Many varied effect can be produced by changing the type of stitching, the weigth of padding, the fabric on which the work is done.

Patch work quite is done by introduce patch work at the top layer alone. Applique work quilting has appliqu� design on the top layer.

Whole cloth quilt has the top layer quilted fully.

14. Mirror work:

Mirror work is the art of stitching mirrors on to the fabric in a variety of designs.Mirrors of different shapes Square, Diamond, Round etc and sizes are used for Mirror work. Mirror work can be done on any fabric in sarees, blouse pieces, skirts etc. After fixing the mirror you can stitch beads around to make it more attractive. Sequence is a plastic silver coated material available in different shapes and size. This is also used instead of mirrors.

15. Crochet: This is a kind of interlacing done with a crochet hook - made of steel, plastic or wood. For fine work needles vary. There are many kinds of knot. Which produce different effects. After finishing damp, pin and iron the article. To finish cut 4" away from the last loop. Thread it to needle and give a neat finish.


16.  Bias Bind: If the edge to be bound is much curved as for instance, a neck edge, run a fine gathering thread round it to prevent stitching. Run it to the right side, then turn and finish it, cut the strip double, for bound effect of needed.


17.  Bias tubbing: It's the most versatile trimmings. It is usually of 1" wide, folding in half with wrong side out and stitch through the center of the folded bias strip. The seam will be as wide as finished tubing. Use small stitch, then turn, if needed insert bodkin and do hand sewing. It is used to finish necks, and buttons.


18.  Pipings: these are usually applied to seam or round ends, on collars, cuffs, yokes. Cut a self or constrast bias strip �' wide. Join it. Place the raw edge on the right side machine stitch. Turn half way back and machine. Press after finished.

19. Lace:

 Lace is the form of medallions, should be tacked into place on the right side of the materials, the material behind must be cut leaving a small turning to be loop stitched, to prevent fraving. This got in many colours, shapes and size, thus a suitable one could be purchased or it can be even done at homes, using a chrote needle. Lace making is one of women's hobbies, thus homemade ones, vary to own slaste and stand unique.

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11th 12th std standard Textiles And Dress Designing Cloth stitch Higher secondary school College practical steps methods Notes : Garment Enrichment - Different types of applied decorations |

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