Construction Of Pocket

CONSTRUCTION OF POCKET:

1. Patch Pocket:

Patch pocket may be lined or unlined. A lining is needed for fabrics that stretch or sag. Fabrics that are firm enough to hold their shape can be used without a lining. The steps in constructing a patch pocket are as follows.

a. Construction details:

          Turn under top edge of pocket hem �' (6mm), press and stitch.

          Turn the hem to the right side of the pocket along fold line and pin.

          Stay stitch around the pocket on the seamline, beginning at fold line of the hem. The stay stitch will act as a guide for turning and pressing the edges and corners.

Trim and grade hem seam allowances. Clip upper corners. Turn hem right side out and press.

          Fold in seam allowances along stitching and press. Square corners must be mitered; rounded corners must be notched.

          Stitch the edge of the hem to the pocket by hand, or top stitch from right side.

Pin the pocket to the garment. Slip stitch around the pocket by hand. Or topstitch edges in place. Reinforce corners by backstitching or by stitching a small triangle or square.

Both the top corners of the pockets must be reinforced properly to add strength. This can be done by the following methods.

b. Corner reinforcement of patch pocket:

          Small, identical triangles stitched at each top corner: This is the pocket reinforcement seen most frequently on shirts.

          A zigzag stitch: This stitch about /8' wide and closely spaced, runs down �' from the top of each side. Good for children's clothes.

          A backstitch:This is used for �' on each side of the pocket's opening edge, with thread ends tied. This method is often used on kid's wear.

          Patched fabric: A patch of fabric or fusible interlacing, placed on the wrong side of garment under reinforcement stitching, adds strength.

          Hand reinforcement: Hand reinforcement is done with Whip Stitch, invisibly for �' on each side of top corners.

Bar-tacking: Another hand method in bar tacking �' long straight stitches diagonally corners with blanket stitches worked over them.

2. In-seam pocket:

This is the easiest type of pocket to make. The pocket is attached to the side seam of the garment. It can be cut as part of the garment front and back. or it can be cut from a separate pattern piece and stitched to the seam. If the outer fabric is bulky or heavy, cut the pocket pieces from linging fabric.

a. Construction details:

         Stitch a piece of seam tape or twill tape along the front and back fold line or seamline to prevent stretching.

          If the pocet is cut separately, stitch pocket pieces to front and back opening, right sides together. Press seam allowances toward pocket pieces.

          Pin the garment fron to garment back, matching markings at seamline and pocket.

          Stitch directionally along seam and around pocket in one step. Use reinforcement stitches, 15 to 20 stitches per inch at the coreners. Press seam allowances flat. Turn the pocket toward the front of the garment. Clip back seam allowances above and below pocket so that the seam allowances of the garment can be pressed open. Piping material would be effective. Buttons may be fixed in groups to create design interest gradually progressing in size from small to big.

          Seams can be finished if necessary.