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There are two types of sewing, hand sewing and machine sewing. The two types involve quite different techniques. As a
beginner, hand sewing techniques can be learnt for basic sewing. To work hand sewing quickly and perfectly, it needs practice but learning the basic procedure helps to develop the desired skill.
The basic hand stitches can be divided into temporary stitches and permanent stitches.
Temporary stitches are further divided into Even basting, Uneven basting, Diagonal basting and Slip basting.
Preliminary steps to thread a needle:
1. Cut a length of thread of about 30 inches. Do not use a very long thread, it may knot and interrupt while sewing.
2. Use one end to thread the needle and pull it out from the eye of the needle.
3. Hold two ends and tie a knot.
Temporary Hand Stitches
1. Even Basting
A single thread of contrasting colour should be used. Secure the thread with a knot on the wrong side or several firm small stitches at the end of the seam. Make the running stitches ¼' long, where the stitch is the same length on the right and wrong sides. Secure the thread well at the end of the seam. Even basting is used where there is strain while stitching bodice seams and also as a guideline for stitching intricate top stitched details .
2. Uneven basting
A single thread of contrasting colour is used. Secure the thread with a knot on the wrong side or with several small firm stitches. Make two stitches one ¼' long and the other ¾' long and repeat from one end of the cloth to the other. Secure the thread well at the end of the seam. Uneven basting is used to stitch the fall of sarees and later removed when permanent stitches have been worked. It is also used as a guideline to stitch straight lines..
3. Diagonal basting
Insert the needle into the fabric, the point facing you. A short vertical stitch is produced on the wrong side and a long slanting stitch on the right side of the fabric. Diagonal basting hold two layers or edges of fabric together temporarily. It is not used on seam lines but on linings and interlinings and on edges of buttonholes and pockets.
4. Slip basting
To slipbaste, work from the right side, turn under the seam allowance on one piece, and lap it over the seamline on the other piece. Using a single thread of contrasting colour take a short stitch on the seamline of the under piece. Slip the needle through the fold of the upper piece and repeat the stitches. The needle is never brought through the upper surface of the top layer. Slip basting is used to match patterned fabrics where seams have to be stitched from the right side of the fabric.
Bastings should be removed as soon as they have served their purpose. If not, they will interrupt in the opening and pressing of seamlines. Cut off knots and clip the bastings every few inches before pulling the thread. Do not pull with tweezers for it may damage the fabric.
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