There are
two types of sewing, hand sewing and machine sewing. The two types involve
quite different techniques. As a
beginner, hand sewing techniques can be learnt for basic sewing. To work
hand sewing quickly and perfectly, it needs practice but learning the basic
procedure helps to develop the desired skill.
The basic hand stitches can be divided into temporary stitches and
permanent stitches.
Temporary stitches are further divided into Even basting, Uneven
basting, Diagonal basting and Slip basting.
Preliminary steps to thread a needle:
1.
Cut a length of thread of about 30 inches. Do
not use a very long thread, it may knot and interrupt while sewing.
2.
Use one end to thread the needle and pull it out
from the eye of the needle.
3.
Hold two ends and tie a knot.
Temporary Hand
Stitches
1. Even Basting
A single
thread of contrasting colour should be used. Secure the thread with a knot on
the wrong side or several firm small stitches at the end of the seam. Make the
running stitches ¼' long, where the stitch is the same length on the right and
wrong sides. Secure the thread well at the end of the seam. Even basting is
used where there is strain while stitching bodice seams and also as a guideline
for stitching intricate top stitched details .
2. Uneven basting
A single
thread of contrasting colour is used. Secure the thread with a knot on the
wrong side or with several small firm stitches. Make two stitches one ¼' long
and the other ¾' long and repeat from one end of the cloth to the other. Secure
the thread well at the end of the seam. Uneven basting is used to stitch the
fall of sarees and later removed when permanent stitches have been worked. It
is also used as a guideline to stitch straight lines..
3. Diagonal basting
Insert the
needle into the fabric, the point facing you. A short vertical stitch is
produced on the wrong side and a long slanting stitch on the right side of the
fabric. Diagonal basting hold two layers or edges of fabric together
temporarily. It is not used on seam lines but on linings and interlinings and
on edges of buttonholes and pockets.
4. Slip basting
To
slipbaste, work from the right side, turn under the seam allowance on one
piece, and lap it over the seamline on the other piece. Using a single thread
of contrasting colour take a short stitch on the seamline of the under piece.
Slip the needle through the fold of the upper piece and repeat the stitches.
The needle is never brought through the upper surface of the top layer. Slip
basting is used to match patterned fabrics where seams have to be stitched from
the right side of the fabric.
Removing Bastings
Bastings should be removed as soon as they have
served their purpose. If not, they will interrupt in the opening and pressing
of seamlines. Cut off knots and clip the bastings every few inches before
pulling the thread. Do not pull with tweezers for it may damage the fabric.
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