Cut Choli

Cut Choli

Learning objectives

·               To gain the knowledge in stitching cut choli.

·               To learn the selection of fabric and types of decorative items to be incorporated in cut choli.

Introduction

·               The garment is usually worn by Women.

·               It is worn along with saree and half saree.

·               It is a tight fitting garment worn according to body size.

Tools required  

Measuring Tools - Measuring Tape, Scale.

Drawing Tools - Brown Paper, Bell Pin, Table, Pencil.

Marking Tools - Tailor’s Chalk, Pencil.

Cutting Tools - Scissors, Seam Rippers, Fabric Shears.

Stitching Tools - Thread, Hand Needle, Sewing Machine.

Pressing Tools - Ironing Board, Ironing Box.

Fasteners Attachments - Press Button, Hook and Eyes.

Decoratives - Applique, Embroidery, Lace, Border Design, Stone Work, Jammiki Works

Suitable Fabrics

Voils, Cotton, Silk, Velvet, Huckobha Printed Silk, Umber, 2 x 2 Blouse Materials. These types of fabrics can be used.

Measurements

Age - 15 Years

Full Length -  35 cm + 4 cm

  (for Hem)

Bust Circumference - 75 cm

Shoulder Width - 32 cm

Hip Circumference - 62 cm

Arm (Sleeve) - 28 cm

Circumference  

Sleeve Length - 20 cm

Fabric requirement

Height of garment + twice the length of the sleeve + 5 cm of the fabric is needed (90 cm).

DRAFTING

Front bodice

AB = CD - Full Length

AJ = CK -  Full Length – Cross Belt  (8 cm)

AC = BD - 1/4 of Bust Circumference (19 cm)

AE - Front Neck Depth (10  cm)

A – E - Neck Width (7.5 cm)

AG -  1/2 the Shoulder Width  (16 cm)

GH - 1/6 of Bust Circumferences (14 cm  + 2 1/2 cm)

DI - 2.5 cm

JB – KD - Waist Band

HKD - Side Seam

E F G H K J E - Front Bodice Pattern

SG - Straight Grain

Back bodice

A B = C D - Full Length + 4 cm

A C = B D - 1/4 of Bust Circumference (19 cm)

A E -   Back Neck (10 cm)

A F -   Neck Width (7.5 cm)

A G -   1/2 the Shoulder Width (16 cm)

G H - 1/6 of Bust Circumferences + 2.5 cm (14 cm + 2.5 cm)

D I - 2.5 cm

H I - Side Seam

S G - Straight Grain

E F G H IB E - Back Bodice Pattern

Drafting sleeve:

A B = C D -   Sleeve Length (20 cm)

B D = AC -   Sleeve Width (14 cm)

A E - Sleeve Armhole

C E - 7 cm

E F - Side Seam

B F - Sleeve Hem Line

Cutting lines:

Front Side -   E F G H K J

Cross Belt -   J K D B

Back Side - E F G H I B

Sleeve - A E F B

Layout

The fabric is folded in lengthwise centre fold.

Marking and cutting

Cut according to the pattern which is placed in the fabric after including seam allowances.

Garment components

Front Bodice - 2 Pieces

Cross Band - 4 Pieces

Back Bodice - 1 piece

Sleeve - 2 pieces

Fabric required for finishing neck and plackets.

Stitching methods

·               On the front bodice make three darts and join the cross band along with it.

·               On the front bodice, attach the plackets.

·               On the back bodice, make two half darts.

·               Finish the edges of the sleeve and join the side seams.

·               Join the sleeve patterns along with the bodice patterns.

·               By using the cross piece finish the edges of the necklines.

Finishing

● Cut off the unwanted threads.

● Stitch hook and eyes at the required areas.

● Finished garments should be ironed neatly.

Types of Cut Choli