Textiles and Dress Designing - Cut Choli | 12th Textiles and Dress Designing : Practical

Chapter: 12th Textiles and Dress Designing : Practical

Cut Choli

To gain the knowledge in stitching cut choli.

Cut Choli

Learning objectives

·               To gain the knowledge in stitching cut choli.

·               To learn the selection of fabric and types of decorative items to be incorporated in cut choli.


·               The garment is usually worn by Women.

·               It is worn along with saree and half saree.

·               It is a tight fitting garment worn according to body size.

Tools required  

Measuring Tools - Measuring Tape, Scale.

Drawing Tools - Brown Paper, Bell Pin, Table, Pencil.

Marking Tools - Tailor’s Chalk, Pencil.

Cutting Tools - Scissors, Seam Rippers, Fabric Shears.

Stitching Tools - Thread, Hand Needle, Sewing Machine.

Pressing Tools - Ironing Board, Ironing Box.

Fasteners Attachments - Press Button, Hook and Eyes.

Decoratives - Applique, Embroidery, Lace, Border Design, Stone Work, Jammiki Works

Suitable Fabrics

Voils, Cotton, Silk, Velvet, Huckobha Printed Silk, Umber, 2 x 2 Blouse Materials. These types of fabrics can be used.


Age - 15 Years

Full Length -  35 cm + 4 cm

  (for Hem)

Bust Circumference - 75 cm

Shoulder Width - 32 cm

Hip Circumference - 62 cm

Arm (Sleeve) - 28 cm


Sleeve Length - 20 cm

Fabric requirement

Height of garment + twice the length of the sleeve + 5 cm of the fabric is needed (90 cm).


Front bodice

AB = CD - Full Length

AJ = CK -  Full Length – Cross Belt  (8 cm)

AC = BD - 1/4 of Bust Circumference (19 cm)

AE - Front Neck Depth (10  cm)

A – E - Neck Width (7.5 cm)

AG -  1/2 the Shoulder Width  (16 cm)

GH - 1/6 of Bust Circumferences (14 cm  + 2 1/2 cm)

DI - 2.5 cm

JB – KD - Waist Band

HKD - Side Seam

E F G H K J E - Front Bodice Pattern

SG - Straight Grain

Back bodice

A B = C D - Full Length + 4 cm

A C = B D - 1/4 of Bust Circumference (19 cm)

A E -   Back Neck (10 cm)

A F -   Neck Width (7.5 cm)

A G -   1/2 the Shoulder Width (16 cm)

G H - 1/6 of Bust Circumferences + 2.5 cm (14 cm + 2.5 cm)

D I - 2.5 cm

H I - Side Seam

S G - Straight Grain

E F G H IB E - Back Bodice Pattern

Drafting sleeve:

A B = C D -   Sleeve Length (20 cm)

B D = AC -   Sleeve Width (14 cm)

A E - Sleeve Armhole

C E - 7 cm

E F - Side Seam

B F - Sleeve Hem Line

Cutting lines:

Front Side -   E F G H K J

Cross Belt -   J K D B

Back Side - E F G H I B

Sleeve - A E F B


The fabric is folded in lengthwise centre fold.

Marking and cutting

Cut according to the pattern which is placed in the fabric after including seam allowances.

Garment components

Front Bodice - 2 Pieces

Cross Band - 4 Pieces

Back Bodice - 1 piece

Sleeve - 2 pieces

Fabric required for finishing neck and plackets.

Stitching methods

·               On the front bodice make three darts and join the cross band along with it.

·               On the front bodice, attach the plackets.

·               On the back bodice, make two half darts.

·               Finish the edges of the sleeve and join the side seams.

·               Join the sleeve patterns along with the bodice patterns.

·               By using the cross piece finish the edges of the necklines.


● Cut off the unwanted threads.

● Stitch hook and eyes at the required areas.

● Finished garments should be ironed neatly.

Types of Cut Choli

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