Marking the Patterns
Marking refers to the process of placing pattern pieces to maximize the number of patterns that can be cut out of a given piece of fabric in order to make garments. Pattern making is a highly skilled technique which calls for technical ability, sensitivity for design interpretation and a practical understanding of the process technology used by the factory. Marking is the process of transferring the pattern lines and details like darts on the fabric. It can be done using different methods like red and blue pencils, tailor chalks, pencil and carbon paper.
· To check whether all the pattern details are marked.
· To check if there is sufficient material for the garment.
· Select suitable method of marking E.g. Tailor’s chalk for patterns with cutting lines only, Pencil and carbon paper to mark patterns for beginners, because sewing line can be marked.
· Do not mark using lead pen because it leaves black marks on the pattern.
· This is one of the easiest and simplest ways of transferring the pattern details on to the fabric.
· Tailor’s chalk is a triangle coloured wax available in dark and light colours.
· The pattern is placed in the fabric and the outline is drawn using the chalk.
· It is the oldest method of marking the patterns where carbon is placed in between the pattern and fabric.
· Then the pattern outline and details are drawn using an ordinary pencil.
· In this technique the sewing line and dart can be transferred.
· A tracing wheel is also known as a pattern wheel, pounce wheel and dart wheel is an instrument with multiple teeth on a wheel attached to a handle. The teeth can be either serrated or smooth. It is used to transfer markings from sewing patterns onto the fabric with or without the use of tracing paper and can be used to make slotted perforations.
· Such markings might include pleats, darts, buttonholes, notches or placement lines for appliqués or pockets.
· The double tracing wheel has two parallel wheels that can be positioned a variable distance apart.
· This tool can be used to transfer parallel pattern lines onto the fabric, such as both the cutting line and the sewing line, where the distance between them is the seam allowance.