Front Bodice Pattern
Draw a rectangle using following measurements. Point A - B = 1/4 bust measurement + 1 cm + 0.5 cm (for ease). Point A - C = front waist length. Now close of the rectangle making sure it is perfectly squared.
From point C - E and D - F mark the side length. Connect points E and F with a straight line.
From point B - H and F - G mark in 5 cms. Connect points G - H with a straight line.
From point G - I mark a 6 c
From point A-J apply one tenth the waist measurement + 1 cm. From point A-K apply one tenth the waist measurement, Connect J-K.
From point B-L mark down 9 cms. Connect points K-L.
From point E-M mark 1\2 the bust separation.
From point A-N mark down 5 cms. Then from N mark down another 6 cms and mark that O. Connect both points N and O to M using straight line.
From point C-P mark into the same measurement as E-M. Draw a vertical line point F-Q. This line should be 15 cms long.
Mark 1.5 cms to either side of points O and connect both these points to point Q (waist dart).
From point C-R apply 1/4th waist + 1 cm +3 cms + 0.5 cm. Connect R-F with a straight line.
Connect L, I and F with a curve (armhole).
Cut out the pattern except leave the 3cm margin at the top shoulder. Close the shoulder dart following the flap in the back towards the armhole. Tape it shut, then redraw the shoulder line. Cut straight across the new shoulder line.
A-B sleeve = sleeve length 7 1/2 inches (19 cms) to 7 3/4th inches (20 cms).
A-C =4 1/2 inches (12 cms).
Square points C and B to the right.
A-D = 3/8 inch (1 cm).
D-E =1/2 armhole measurement.
B-F =1/2 lower arm girth + 3/8 inch (1 cm).
Connect E-F and D-E.
Divide line D-E into 4 equal parts and mark G, H, I.
G-J raise 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
I-K lower 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect D, J, H with a French curve.
Connect E, L, H with a French curve (for front sleeve cap). H-L 1/4 inch = 10.5 cm.
M centre of K and I. Connect J, L, M and E for back sleeve cap line with a dotted line.
Cut off L-E and F-E. Open the sleeve and cut E, K, H to J for front sleeve pattern
After drafting the basic pattern check it correctly and accurately, especially the measurements and the parts of pattern pieces and then cut the basic pattern the following cutting line smoothly.
Join front and back bodice by the shoulder.
Attach the sleeve at both left and right side.
Before attaching sleeve, the hem of the sleeve should be fold stitched not showing the raw edges.
The neck line should need to be fold stitched at both front and back side.
At last the front and back hem should be fold stitched not showing the raw edges.
The thread colour should match the fabric that used.