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Sewing Garment - Types of Sleeve Finishes | 11th Textiles and Dress Designing : Chapter 13 : Sewing Garment Details

Chapter: 11th Textiles and Dress Designing : Chapter 13 : Sewing Garment Details

Types of Sleeve Finishes

For the perfect completion of a sleeve, different finishes are used on the sleeve edge.

Types of Sleeve Finishes

For the perfect completion of a sleeve, different finishes are used on the sleeve edge.

The selection of the finish usually depends upon the pattern of the sleeve. The differ-ent types of sleeve finishes are as follows :

·           Self-hemmed edge – It is a simple sleeve finish. A facing may be used in it.

·           Double binding edge – It gives a decorative finish to the sleeve. It can also be made with contrasting fabric for interest creation in the garment.

·           Casing – It is sewn at the edge of the sleeve. It can either be self faced or can be separately applied.

·           Cuff – it is stitched at the edge of the sleeve. It can be with a placket open-ing or can be loose without opening (Figure 13.12).


 

Cuff :

A cuff is a sleeve finish given at the sleeve edge. A cuff can be straight, gathered or pleated according to the design of the garment.


Cuff with Plackets:

Cuff with placket is generally attached to a long sleeve with a placket opening made at the sleeve edge. Thus cuff comes tight around the wrist, with a placket. There are three types of plackets which are commonly used.

·           Faced placket – The edges of the placket meet at the opening.

·           Continuous bound placket – It is finished with a single fabric strip to create a narrow lap.

·           Tailored or shirt placket – It is fin-ished with two separate pieces to create a wider lap (Figure 13.13).



Cuffs without Plackets:

Cuffs without plackets have no openings and hence the sleeve openings are loose for the hands to come out easily. There are three basic types of cuffs without plackets.

·           Straight band Cuff – It is a simple cuff with a straight band of fabric attached at the bottom of the sleeve.

·           Straight turn back Cuff – It is made by turning up the hem of the sleeve. Sometimes, a separate extension piece is added at the bottom of the sleeve and turned.

·           Shaped turn- back Cuff – This cuff is first constructed separately with a shape and then the same is stitched to the edge of the sleeve with a fac-ing (Figure 13.14).



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