Types of Sleeve Finishes
For the perfect completion of a sleeve, different finishes are used on the sleeve edge.
The selection of the finish usually depends upon the pattern of the sleeve. The differ-ent types of sleeve finishes are as follows :
· Self-hemmed edge – It is a simple sleeve finish. A facing may be used in it.
· Double binding edge – It gives a decorative finish to the sleeve. It can also be made with contrasting fabric for interest creation in the garment.
· Casing – It is sewn at the edge of the sleeve. It can either be self faced or can be separately applied.
· Cuff – it is stitched at the edge of the sleeve. It can be with a placket open-ing or can be loose without opening (Figure 13.12).
A cuff is a sleeve finish given at the sleeve edge. A cuff can be straight, gathered or pleated according to the design of the garment.
Cuff with placket is generally attached to a long sleeve with a placket opening made at the sleeve edge. Thus cuff comes tight around the wrist, with a placket. There are three types of plackets which are commonly used.
· Faced placket – The edges of the placket meet at the opening.
· Continuous bound placket – It is finished with a single fabric strip to create a narrow lap.
· Tailored or shirt placket – It is fin-ished with two separate pieces to create a wider lap (Figure 13.13).
Cuffs without plackets have no openings and hence the sleeve openings are loose for the hands to come out easily. There are three basic types of cuffs without plackets.
· Straight band Cuff – It is a simple cuff with a straight band of fabric attached at the bottom of the sleeve.
· Straight turn back Cuff – It is made by turning up the hem of the sleeve. Sometimes, a separate extension piece is added at the bottom of the sleeve and turned.
· Shaped turn- back Cuff – This cuff is first constructed separately with a shape and then the same is stitched to the edge of the sleeve with a fac-ing (Figure 13.14).
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