Types of Pockets
Pockets can be divided into three types namely patch pockets, inseam pockets and slash pockets.
Patch pocket is a simple pocket and it is sewn like a patch on to a garment. Patch pocket has an opening on the top. This pocket is very common on men’s shirts. For kids garment, the pocket can be stitched in shapes of square or triangle or as cartoon motits. Laces, piping, embroidery can also be used for decorative purposes. It can be stitched with lining cloth or without lining. It can also be made with decorative fabrics. A lining is needed for fabrics that stretch or sag. Fabrics that are firm enough to hold their shape can be stitched without a lining (Figure 13.23).
· Turn under top edge of pocket hem line on the right side of the fabric and stitch.
· Stay stitch around the pocket on seam line, beginning at fold line of the hem.
· Trim the extra material, turn hem right side out and press.
· Fold in seam allowances along stitching and press. Square corners must be mitered, rounded corners must be notched.
· Stitch the edge of the hem to the pocket by hand or top stitch from right side using machine.
· Pin the pocket to the garment, slip stitch around the pocket by hand or top stitch edges in place. Reinforce corners by back stitching or by stitching a small triangle or square. Both the top corners of the pockets must be reinforced properly to add strength.
In seam pockets are sewen along the side seams of the garment. These pockets are made on the left side of the garment. These pockets are generally stitched in boy’s shorts, girl’s pant, pajama and kurtas. It can be cut as part of the garment front and back or it can be cut from a separate pattern piece and stitched to the seam. If the outer fabric is bulky or heavy, the pocket pieces can be cut from lining fabric (Figure 13.24).
· Take two pairs of pocket pieces in the main fabric or plain fabric.
· Finish all the edges of pocket pieces.
· Stitch pocket pieces to front and back opening, right sides together. Press seam allowances toward pocket pieces.
· Pin the garment front and the gar-ment back, matching at seam line and pocket.
· Stitch directionally along seam and around pocket in one step. Use reinforcement stitches. Press seam allowance flat.
· Turn the pocket toward the front of the garment. Piping material would be effective. Buttons may be fixed in groups to create design interest.
· Seams can be finished if necessary.
Slash pocket is a pocket suspended on the wrong side of the garment. A finished slit is seen on the right of the garment. It serves as pocket opening. There are three types of slash pockets namely, bound pocket, welt pocket and flap pocket.
· In bound pocket the edges are slashed and finished with binding. This is even in width.
· In case of welt pocket the binding are wider at the front, extending above the pocket opening.
· There is a flap attached over the bound or welt pocket. This is called flap pocket (Figure 13.25).
· Cut along line on the front garment pattern.
· Cut fabric pieces as per slash pocket.
· Alter front piece of the garment as per the pocket slant.
· Place the right side of the pocket on the right side of the garment.
· Stitch along a seam line and press seam allowance.
· Fold pocket facing the wrong sides, finish the bottom hem line with a row of stitching.
· Flip the pocket back to bring the right side of the pocket out.
· Stitch pocket to front panel of the garment.
· Press neatly.