Skirts are incredible part of a women’s wardrobe. Skirts are lower garment used by both girls and women. It is draped around the waist to fall over the hip to desired length. Skirt length varies accord-ing to the wish of the wearer and some-times it is named based upon the length. Example the skirt which falls up to the floor is known as full skirts. Skirts can be enhanced using fullness or by addition of trimmings and decorations. It can also be made simple in structure or intricate like plain skirt or three layered skirts.
The major parts of a skirt are waist line, hip line, hem line, center front side seam, waist darts, opening and belt. The Figure 13.15 below shows the parts of skirt pattern.
Skirts are classified in many ways. Some of them are mentioned below:
· Types of skirt based on height or length of the skirt (Figure 13.16).
o Mini skirt– Height of skirt is from waist to mid thigh.
o Half skirt – Height of skirt is from waist to knee.
o Three fourth skirt – Height of skirt is from waist to 10 cm below the knee.
o Midi skirt – Height of the skirt is from waist to ankle.
o Full skirt – Height of skirt is from waist to the floor
· Types of skirt based upon the width of the skirt.
o Straight skirt – Width of the skirt varies from 15 to 30 cm more than waist round measurement at the hemline. This skirt falls close to the body of the wearer.
o Flared skirt – Width of skirt varies from 30 cm to required flare of the wearer. This gives a circular look at the hem line. When the flare is max-imum it is called as circular skirt or umbrella skirt (Figure 13.17).
o Gathered / pleated skirts – The width of the skirt is three times more than waist line. The width measurement is same at waist line and hem line. The entire width is gathered or pleated (knife, box, inverted box) at the waist line.
· Types of skirts based upon the mod-ification of the basic skirt pattern.
o Yoke skirt – The skirt has a min-imum flare of 15 – 20 cm more at hem line to help in movement. The skirt yoke is cut across the hip line, horizontally. It can also be shaped. The width of the lower part of skirt can be increased and gathered or given a slight flare and attached (Figure 13.18).
o Panel skirt – These skirt are gen-erally used for sari petticoats. The hem line has a width of 15 to 30 cm more than the waist line. The waist line is divided in 4, 6, 8 equal parts and cut from waist line to hem and attached together. They are also known as gore skirts.
The basic skirt is also called plain or straight skirt.
Draw a rectangle ABCD,
AB = CD = ¼ hip round + 5 cm for ease or required mea- surement for flare
BC = AD = skirt length (add required hem allowances of 5-8 cm.)
Mark AG=BF = Waist to hip (15 to 20 cm)
AE = ¼ waist + 2.5 cm for dart and 1 cm for ease
Dart = 1.25 cm
Mark ¼ seat + 1.25 cm for ease on line GF Mark CC1 = 1 cm
Mark points (1.2 cm) on either side of O.
Connect them to P (Figure 13.19).
· Join the side seams
· Finish one side with 15 cm long-one piece placket
· Join waist band
· Finish hem line
· Attach fasteners and iron
Draw a rectangle ABCD
AB = DC = ½ waist round + 2.5 cm
AD = BC = Skirt length + hem allow-ance (8 to 10 cm) – Band or belt width (10 cm) Band is cut separately and attached after the sides are attached
AE and CF = 1/8 waist + 1.25 cm for ease Join EF
Mark points below A and C along the lines AD and BC as shown in the figure = 2.5 cm
Mark points below E and F as shown in the figure = 3.5 cm
Curve the lines as shown in the figure
Number of pieces cut will be 4 side panel and 2 central panels (Figure 13.20).
· Join the two side panels on either side of the center panels.
· Join the side seams
o Finish one side with 15 cms one piece placket.
o Join waist band.
o Finish hem line.
o Attach fasteners and iron.
Draw a rectangle ABCD
AB = BC = CD = DA = Length of the skirt + 1/6 waist + 2 cm for hem allowance
BE = BF= 1/6 waist
EA = FC = Skirt length
Join BD, EF, and APC as curved lines (Figure 13.21).
· The patterns are cut on fold.
· Finish the hem line. Care should be taken to finish it with a very small fold (0.5 cm)
· The waist line is finished with a facing belt.
· Insert elastic or make a one piece placket with fasteners.
· Iron the garment.
Skirts are a very important part of a garment. Great interest can be created in the garment using variations in skirt height and width. Different type of decorations like frills, appliqués can be added to skirts. Skirts can also be cut along cross grain to create different line effects which can be used to modify the look of a person.
· Skirts are garments used in the lower part of the body.
· Skirts can be narrow, straight or flared.
· A wide range of skirts can be designed with a change in the skirt length.
· The waist line of skirts should be finished with a belt which helps to hold the skirt.
· Demonstrate drafting and construction of different types of skirts.
· Prepare draft and samples for
o Basic Skirt.
o Circular Skirt.
o Pleated Skirt.
o Gathered Skirts.