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MARKING THE PAPER PATTERNS
Marking is the process of transferring the paper pattern to the garment. Great care is needed and every detail in paper pattern should be put on the fabric for cutting and sewing. The most important details are side seams, front and back cutting and sewing lines, hemlines, darts, folds, place-ments of pockets and fullnesses, notches, placement of openings, fasteners and any other special garment details.
The different methods followed in marking are tailor chalk, dress mak-ing’s tracing wheel and carbon, pins and threads. The most commonly used meth-ods are discussed below :
Tailor chalk is a small triangular chalk which can be used to draw the outer lines of the pattern. This is cheap and com-monly used. Tailors chalk is available in different colour like blue, white, yellow and red. Depending upon the colour of the fabric it can be chosen, yellow and white for dark colours and red, blue for light coloured fabrics. The main disad-vantage of this method is it can’t be used to transfer darts, sewing lines and other fine details (Figure 11.1).
Dress maker’s tracing wheel is a small circular wheel with teeth attached to a wooden or plastic handle. By passing the wheel over the line, small dots are marked on the fabric indicating pattern line and other detail. Carbon paper is placed in between the fabric and paper pattern. A cardboard can be placed on the table so that the carbon marking will not fall on the table. Different colour carbon papers are available in the market, like yellow, white, blue and black. Light coloured car-bon paper like white and yellow are used for transferring patterns to dark colour fabric, whereas dark colour carbon papers are used on light coloured fabrics. Care must be taken to give very little pressure on the tracing wheel, so that the mark-ing is light. Markings are done on the wrong side of the fabric. Every detail in the pattern can be marked by this method (Figures 11.2 and 11.3). Certain details like placement of pockets, buttons are to be marked on the right side of the fabric. Before removing the carbon paper check if all details are marked.
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