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Chapter: 11th Textiles and Dress Designing : Basic Sewing

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Seam Finishes and Types of Seam Finishing

Seams have raw edges which tend to ravel out.

Seam Finishes

Seams have raw edges which tend to ravel out. Therefore the raw edge of seams are finished by different methods like double stitching over cast stitching, herring bone stitch, hem stitching, zig-zag stitch and bound finish.

 

Types of Seam Finishing

When joining two pieces of fabric with a seam its raw edges must also be taken care. They must not ravel or create a fuzzy look. Hence seam finishes play an important role in acquiring a neat com-pleted garment. Seam can be finished by different methods (Figure 12.6). The most common methods are discussed below.


Double Stitched Seam

Double stitched seam is done by sewing another or a second row stitches about 0.25 cm away from the original seam. This can be a straight or a zig zag stitch. This seam is done on curled material where travelling of the seam is higher. Example: Knitted Jersey.

Pinked Finish

Pinked finish is given by cutting the edges of the seams with pinking shears. This is a simple and easy method. It does not involve more time, but it is not suitable for material which tend to ravel easily. Example: Satin.

Stitched and Pinked Seam

Stitched and pinked seam is a simple seam. First the fabrics are joined by a row of stitches. Then the raw edges are trimmed using pinking shears. This seam finish is not suitable for seams which ravel easily.

Herring Bone Seam Finish

Herring bone seam finish is done by fold-ing the raw edges flat on the dress and working a row of herring bone stitches. This finish is very neat since the raw edges are not visible. It is suitable for heavy materials. Example: Men’s coat

Hem Stitched Seam Finish

Hem stitched seam finish is similar to her-ring bone seam finish. In this finish the raw edges are folded and pressed toward the dress and a row of hem stitch is done. This looks very neat because only small dotted line is seen on the right side.

Overcast Seam Finish

Overcast seam finish is a finish which is suitable for both thick and thin fabrics, which fray easily. It can be used for seam along the armscye, yoke lines and even in hem lines. A plain seam is made first. Then the raw edges are completed sepa-rately with overcast stitches.

Edge Stitched Seam Finish

In edge stitched seam finish, the raw edges are pressed open and folded for 0.5 cm down and a row of top stitch is done on both raw edges without attaching it to the dress. This seam gives a neat look. Due to its thickness it is not suitable for curved edges.

Zig-zag Seam Finish

Zig zag seam finish is done by holding both the edges of the seam together and making a row of zig zag stitch. It is best suitable for fur material.

Bound Seam Finish

Bound seam finish is done by stitching around the open seam on the wrong side. The stitch is made along the seam line, with wider side of the tape underneath. This seam is best suitable for finish-ing seams on unlined coats and sports jackets.

Net-Bound Seam Finish

Nylon or a netted strip of fabric is placed near the raw edges of the seam in such a manner that the nylon fabric is slightly off-center. The nylon material is firmly folded covering the seam and sewed. Net bound seam finish is best suitable for thin delicate fabrics, like velvet and chiffon.

 

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