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Chapter: 11th Textiles and Dress Designing : Fabric Preparation for Sewing

Fabric Preparation for Sewing | Study Material, Lecturing Notes, Assignment, Reference, Wiki description explanation, brief detail |

Fabric Straightening

Fabric undergoes tension, while weaving, knitting, dyeing or printing.

FABRIC STRAIGHTENING

Fabric undergoes tension, while weaving, knitting, dyeing or printing. During these processes the position of the yarns can change resulting inbalance of the fabric. If a garment is cut and stitched when the yarns are not straight, then the drape of the garment will not be correct. Therefore it is important to ensure the correct place-ment of the yarn before cutting. This process of placing the misplaced yarns in the correct position is known as straight-ening of fabric. The yarns must interlace at right angles.

First check if the fabric is straight by placing the fabric on long table, press with your fingers and remove the creases. Fold the fabric in the lengthwise direc-tion. If the two selvedges meet evenly with the side of the table and the raw edges come together even with the ends of the table, then the fabric is straight. If not, straighten the fabric.

Straightening of fabric can be car-ried out following anyone of the processes given below:

·           While buying the fabric, cut a slit at one edge of the selvedge. Hold the fab-ric on both hand and pull evenly, in simple terms it is similar to tearing the fabric, by doing so the fabric will tear along the cut crosswise grain which in turn will maintain the grain. This is simplest method of straightening the grain. Generally all salesmen follow tearing method, hence most of the fab-ric is naturally straightened.

·           Draw out a crosswise thread and cut the fabric along with this thread. Place this fabric on the table and pull to meet selvedges. Pull in cross-wise direction. To pull this, two per-son may be required. Pulling must be even on both sides. Then press the material if the cloth is wrinkled. Damp a cloth and press in lengthwise directions.

·           Delicate fabric can be straightened by pressing with the fingers.

 

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