MARKING THE PAPER PATTERNS
Marking is the process of transferring the paper
pattern to the garment. Great care is needed and every detail in paper pattern
should be put on the fabric for cutting and sewing. The most important details
are side seams, front and back cutting and sewing lines, hemlines, darts,
folds, place-ments of pockets and fullnesses, notches, placement of openings,
fasteners and any other special garment details.
The different methods followed in marking are
tailor chalk, dress mak-ing’s tracing wheel and carbon, pins and threads. The
most commonly used meth-ods are discussed below :
Tailor chalk is a small triangular chalk which
can be used to draw the outer lines of the pattern. This is cheap and com-monly
used. Tailors chalk is available in different colour like blue, white, yellow
and red. Depending upon the colour of the fabric it can be chosen, yellow and
white for dark colours and red, blue for light coloured fabrics. The main
disad-vantage of this method is it can’t be used to transfer darts, sewing
lines and other fine details (Figure 11.1).
Dress maker’s tracing wheel is a small circular
wheel with teeth attached to a wooden or plastic handle. By passing the wheel
over the line, small dots are marked on the fabric indicating pattern line and
other detail. Carbon paper is placed in between the fabric and paper pattern. A
cardboard can be placed on the table so that the carbon marking will not fall
on the table. Different colour carbon papers are available in the market, like
yellow, white, blue and black. Light coloured car-bon paper like white and
yellow are used for transferring patterns to dark colour fabric, whereas dark
colour carbon papers are used on light coloured fabrics. Care must be taken to
give very little pressure on the tracing wheel, so that the mark-ing is light.
Markings are done on the wrong side of the fabric. Every detail in the pattern
can be marked by this method (Figures 11.2 and 11.3). Certain details like
placement of pockets, buttons are to be marked on the right side of the fabric.
Before removing the carbon paper check if all details are marked.
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