Textiles and Dress Designing - Kalidhar Kurta | 12th Textiles and Dress Designing : Practical

Chapter: 12th Textiles and Dress Designing : Practical

Kalidhar Kurta

To enrich the knowledge in stitching procedure of a kalidhar kurta.

Kalidhar Kurta


learning objectives

·               To enrich the knowledge in stitching procedure of a kalidhar kurta.

·               To select the suitable fabric, design and emblishments that can be added to the kalidhar kurta.


Introduction

·               Kalidhar kurta was generally worn by north Indian men.

·               Today the garments is also being adopted by the South Indian men as a festive and functional wear.


Tools Required

Measuring Tools - Measuring Tape, Scale.

Drawing Tools - Brown Sheets, Pins, Table, Pencil.

Marking Tools - Tailor’s Chalk, Pencil.

Cutting Tools - Scissors, Seam Rippers, Shears.

Stitching Tools - Thread, Machine Needle, Hand Needle.

Ironing Tools - Iron Box, Iron Table.

Fasteners Attachments - Zipper, Button, Press Button.

Decorative Materials - Embroidery.


Suitable Fabric

Cotton, Silk, Polyester, Linen and other soft material can be used.


Measurements

Age - 4 to 5 Years

Length - 48 cm

Bust or Chest Circumference - 65 cm

Sleeve Length - 38 cm

Upper arm Circumference  - 26 cm

Shoulder Width - 26 cm

Gusset Length / Width - 8 cm / 8 cm

Khali (Side Piece) Upper Width - 9 cm

Khali Lower Width - 8 cm


Fabric requirement

Twice the length of the garment + sleeve length and extra 20 cm for finishing (1.50 mtrs.).


Drafting procedure

Consruct a rectangle ABCD

AB = CD - Height + Hem allowances (48 + 2) 50 cm

AE - Neck Width (8 cm)

AF - Back Neck Depth (4 cm)

AG - Front Neck Depth (8 cm)

AC - 1/2 of the Back Width (Shoulder) (13 cm)

CH - 1/2 Upper Arm Circumference (13 cm)


Side Panel or Khali pattern

A1 B1  = C1 D1 -  Khali Height – 35 cm

A1 C1 - Upper Khali – 4 cm

B1 D1 - Lower Khali – 8 cm


Drafting procedure for sleeve

AB - Sleeve Length + 3 cm

AC -  1/2 the Upper Arm Circumference (13 cm)

BE - 2 cm

AE - Sleeve Side Seam

ED - Sleeve Hem Line


Cutting lines

F E G E C D B -  Kurta Front and Back

A B C D - Khali Piece

A B C D E - Sleeve


Layout

Fold the fabric in the length wise grain.


Marking and cutting

Using the paper pattern, mark the places to be cut on the fabric and cut the fabric by leaving enough of allowances for seams.


Garment components

Kurta Front and Back - 1 Piece

Khali Side Panel - 4 Pieces

Gusset - 2 Pieces

Sleeve - 2 Pieces


Stitching Procedure

·               Attach the sleeve to the bodice.

·               Join the khali piece to side seams of the bodice front, back and sleeves.

·               Join the Gusset to the body and sleeve piece pattern.

·               Make a mitre opening in the kurta.

·               Finish the neck using bias piece.

·               Stitch and finish the sleeve bottom and kurta bottom.

·               Join the sides of the garment.


Finishing

·               Trim out the unwanted threads.

·               Finish out the openings with buttons.

·               Iron and fold the finished garment.



Kalithar kurtha images


 

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